Frequently Asked
Questions:
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Why do I need a backup sump
pump anyway?
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A.
Electric sump pumps fail for a variety of reasons as listed below. Such a
failure can cause a great deal of damage. Insurance companies often exempt this type of damage from their policies, charge extra premiums,
impose higher deductibles, and/or severely limit coverage. Once you have had such damage, they will
often exclude you from future coverage or raise the price and deductible to
very high rates. Even when covered by
insurance, it is YOU that has to deal with it all. The cleanup,
removal, contractors, deductibles, insurance hassles,
adjusters, paperwork, etc. will be YOUR problem. |
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What
are some of the reasons for sump pump failure?
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Power Failure |
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Sump pump burned
out, unplugged, or jammed by mud or a stone |
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Broken impeller
or drive shaft |
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Float switch broken
or stuck |
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Tripped circuit breaker, blown fuse,
or damaged power feed line |
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Too much water
or a clogged sump pump intake screen |
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Clogged or frozen sump pump discharge pipe |
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How do I calculate the amount of water coming in to my sump?
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A.
An average sump is approximately 18 inches across and every inch of
water is approximately one gallon. During a rainy period, place a yardstick
against the side of the sump immediately after the primary pump finishes a
pumping cycle. Just touch the surface of
the water with it, and hold it there. Using a watch, count off one minute and pull the
yardstick out. Take the number of inches the water rose during that time and multiply
by 60. This will be a reasonable estimate of the amount of water that would
come in during an hour of steady rainfall.
Go to
our Homeowners Page for more
information and complete chart. |
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Basepump
Questions:
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Do the listed pumping rates include the municipal water that powers it?
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A. No. Only the water that is removed from the sump
pit itself is counted. The added municipal water is not counted, is never introduced to
the sump pit, and is only used to power the pump. This water is ejected outdoors
after going through Basepump. |
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How much water does Basepump use?
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A. Basepump
uses 1 Gallon of
municipal water to remove 2 Gallons of sump water, at 50 - 60 lbs.
PSI. Water
usage per gallons removed will decrease proportionately as the
pressure increases. At 90 PSI it will use 1 Gallon to
remove more than 2 Gallons from the sump. Since this is an emergency
backup sump pump, this water usage is somewhat irrelevant. The average cost of that water, (about 2.5 cents each minute it
runs in most locales), compared to a basement ruined by
flooding, is an easy tradeoff. This cost is actually very close to the
ordinary cost of the electricity used to
run your primary pump. The water ONLY runs when Basepump is
activated by a high water situation. As
an extreme example, if Basepump were to run for 30 seconds once every
5 minutes for an entire 24 hour period, (288 cycles!) the average cost of operation
for that day would
be approximately $3.60! Compare that to the damage prevented or the replacement
cost of batteries for a battery powered unit. The 3 Models of Basepump use differing amounts of water
at various pressures. See the chart
on the Basepump page to review those usage amounts. |
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How do I know if I have enough water pressure and flow for Basepump?
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A.
A standard static pressure
gauge will tell you if you have the necessary 40 lbs. PSI minimum required
to run Basepump. The best way to test the flow of water, is to use a
hose spigot, a 5 gallon bucket, and a
stopwatch. With the water fully on, carefully calculate the amount of
time it takes
to fill the bucket. If it fills in 40 seconds or less, you have
adequate flow to run Model RB750; 30 seconds or less for Model HB1000;
and 20 seconds or less for CB1500. Remember that this test is at your hose
spigot. It is very likely that the pipe line to that spigot is
smaller than 3/4" and a standard spigot will normally have
some restriction in it. These limits are factored into this test. This
helps determine which Basepump Model will most likely
operate when connected right after the meter. |
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Is there a maximum pressure and what happens if that is exceeded?
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A.
The components of Basepump are rated well above 100 PSI.
However, when 100 PSI is exceeded, the inlet valve may
leak slightly, but only momentarily during the closing process.
While the valve is closing, there is a momentary surge in the
pressure inside the valve and this
may cause the valve to "burp" slightly to relieve the
excess. A few drops of water may escape at that moment and spray
out a little, but that
is all. To avoid this condition, if your incoming water pressure
exceeds 90 PSI, tie in the water connection after the Pressure
Regulator Valve. |
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Choosing
among Basepump Models RB 750, HB 1000, and CB 1500.
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A.
Model RB 750 is for
use in private homes typically having less than 2,500 square feet of basement
area and a minimum 1/2" water service. The Model HB
1000
requires a minimum 3/4" water service. The
Model CB 1500 requires a minimum 3/4" or and a Licensed
Professional Plumber should install it. Carefully consider the pressure and flow
requirements indicated above when ordering. |
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Can I use 1/2" pipe to install
any Basepump model?
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A.
Yes! Only Model RB750 may be installed using 1/2" OR 3/4" pipe and tied
into an existing 1/2" OR 3/4" water line from the main water service.
Model
HB1000 must be installed using 3/4" pipe from the main service line, which must also be
3/4" minimum. Model CB1500 may be installed
using 3/4" OR 1" pipe and tied into an existing
water service of the same or larger size. All shutoff valves
in any installation must be full-flow,
ball or gate type valves, and full-flow copper or
equivalent piping such as PVC, CPVC, PEX, etc. are recommended. Check
with your local Plumbing Department if you are unsure about any of this.
Do
not use or connect to galvanized iron pipe. Do not use piping that is not
approved in your area. We sell easy-to-use,
solder-free installation kits (without the pipe) for both copper
pipe and PEX plastic pipe systems. Go to our Accessories
Page for more information. |
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Is a back-flow preventive device required?
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A.
Some local plumbing codes require
back-flow preventive devices on many water fixture installations to
protect the potable water supply in the event of a flow-reversal in the
system. Check with your local plumbing department if you have any
questions about back-flow. Typically a Dual Check Valve or a SVB
(Spill-Resistant Vacuum Breaker) are industry recognized Back-Flow
devices that can be installed in the water supply pipe before Basepump. Basepump poses no threat to the potable water supply. It
is open to the atmosphere on the discharge side and also has an integrated
backflow device that prevents the reversal of water flow through the
ejector valve. |
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Can the discharge pipe for Basepump be connected to the discharge pipe from
my primary sump pump?
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A.
We recommend that Basepump be discharged separately to the outside.
The purpose of Basepump is to take over no matter what
the reason for your sump pump failure. Keeping it completely independent
of your main pump does this. If a
clogged or frozen discharge pipe causes your main pump to fail and you have used the same discharge pipe for Basepump, then
Basepump will fail, too. If this risk is acceptable to you, then connect it with
the Basepump discharge entering the main discharge at its
highest point and avoid vertical runs of more than a few inches.
If the main pump has a long (more than 6 feet) horizontal run,
make sure it runs downhill to the exterior so gravity will work
WITH the pump and not against it. Connecting to the main pump
discharge still requires the use of the Discharge Relief Tee in
most cases. Refer to installation instructions
for the correct way
to make this connection or call our toll-free number 800 554
1426 for help. |
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How long will Basepump operate during a power failure?
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A.
Basepump will operate as long as your municipal water supply is available.
It is designed to empty the sump pit nearly to the bottom each time before shutting off. It
will turn itself on and off automatically until the problem with the main
pump is corrected. |
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How do I buy a Basepump?
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A.
Click
on: Find
a Distributor
where you can see if there is a dealer or representative in
your area. If not, you will be directed to Online
Purchasing
to buy directly from us. We ship everywhere in the US via UPS and
to Canada via USPS |
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Can
I install a Basepump myself?
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A.
If you are handy and can make copper pipe
connections, you can probably install a Basepump. If you
are a little unsure of yourself when it comes to soldering
copper pipe, we have installation kits available. These kits use
No-Sweat push-in type fittings instead of soldered ones.
They are extremely easy to use and are accepted all over
the country! Take a look at them on
our Accessories Page. If
this all seems too difficult or complicated for you, call a plumber! |
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Does
Basepump cycle quickly or does it run long enough to empty my
sump?
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A.
Some
water powered sump pumps have a float mechanism that turns the
pump on and off with very short run times in between. This This means
the water in the sump remains at a high level and the pump is
slamming on and off very quickly. This is because the float only
needs to rise or fall a very short distance in order to operate.
With Basepump you get a pump that can be pre-set to run long
enough to empty your sump nearly all the way to the bottom. This
means longer pumping cycles and complete pump-down to relieve
hydrostatic pressure under the basement floor. |
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Hydropump
Questions:
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What type of battery will I need for Hydropump and is it included?
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A.
We
recommend the use of a Size 27 Marine Deep Cycle Battery for the Residential Model RH
1400
& DH 1800 and Two
of the same type batteries for the Professional Model PH 3500.
Check with the battery manufacturer about how long before it
needs replacing. Generally, this type of battery will last in
this type of application for 3 - 5 years and requires periodic
maintenance as the fluid inside the battery tends to
"boil out" over time. About every 3-4 months the
chambers need to be visually inspected and distilled water
added to cover the plates inside. You may also use a
Sealed Lead-acid battery or Gel battery. Check with the
manufacturer of each type for information on its life,
charging needs, etc. These typically cost more, last longer,
and are maintenance-free. We do NOT include the battery. Ask for the best
battery in size 27 that you can afford. Make sure the
Battery Manufacturer's Warranty information is available and
covers you for an acceptable period of time; at least one
year. We carry Gel Batteries and AGM Batteries.
These are long-lasting, maintenance-free batteries. See our Accessories
Page. |
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How long will Hydropump operate during a power failure?
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A.
There
are many factors that affect this answer. Refer
to the Hydropump
page for a chart of pumping times. Generally, 2 - 5 days on
average, depending on how often it needs to run, the head
pressure it is pumping against, the discharge piping, etc. Under
continuous
running, which we define as a 30 second run every 2 minutes,
starting with a fully charged battery, and pumping against 9 feet of head pressure, the RH
1400 and
DH 1800 will run 12
or more hours; PH 3500 uses 2 batteries and will run
continuously for 24 hours. An extra battery can be added to
the RH 1400 or the DH 1800 using our DBC Kit. This doubles
the pumping times. |
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Is
the battery charger automatic?
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A.
Yes. It senses when the battery has lost
any of it's capacity and recharges the battery until it reaches a fully charged condition. If
the charger senses that the battery has decayed to a level
below 10 volts, it will determine that the battery cannot be
trickle-charged and will not go on. At that point, a high
capacity charger must be used or it may be time to replace
the battery. |
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Is
the battery charger included?
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A.
Yes. The RH 1400 and the DH 1800 include a 1.5 Amp charger with your purchase as
well as a heavy duty extension cord. The PH 3500 includes a 5.2 Amp
Charger. You will need to have a
nearby ground fault protected outlet to operate these chargers.
The difference between our charger and some of the other
chargers out there is this: Ours is a "finish
charger" which monitors the battery much more closely and
does not allow it to drop in capacity very far before it kicks
in. Some chargers are in use that sound like they
are more powerful because they are rated at, say, 10 AMPS, but in reality, they do not do the kind of
job that our charger does. Many of them allow the battery to
decay upwards of 50% before they turn on. If your pump needs
to run during that "low power" time, it won't run
very long. |
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How
do I buy a Hydropump?
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A.
Click
on: Find
a Distributor
to see if there is a dealer or representative in
your area. If not, then you will
be directed to click Online
Purchasing to buy directly from Base Products. |
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